Petit Verdot: The next top Virginia grape?

I’m a huge fan of Virginia reds. While I appreciate the characters of whites immensely, I tend to settle on hearty, robust reds. Virginia is famous for its white varietals, like Voignier, but within a couple of years there will be a gamut of Virginia reds that will be key players in the US wine market. White has always enjoyed popularity, mainly for its drinkability among newbies.

Let’s start with Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc has achieved reputation as Virginia’s flagship wine and is made in a variety of styles. It is extremely popular in blends in the Bordeaux region of France. Many wineries here in Virginia vinify it alone or in a blend, such as a Meritage. I recently reviewed Horton’s 2007 Cabernet Franc and it instantly became one of my favorites (see the high score). Cabernet Franc is a lighter, less tannin-driven wine mainly because it ripens early and is cooler. It’s a highly drinkable wine in the reds category, which is one of the reasons it is considered a flagship wine.

Enter Petit Verdot. This varietal ripens late and its character is high in tannins. Sometimes it never achieves veraison (ripening) in which it gets its name ‘little green.’ Like Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot is also a blending grape and is responsible for the kick and color it gives to a blend – credit its spiciness, inky color and heartier character compared to Cabernet Franc. Petit Verdot is also a varietal that can be vinified alone. I’ve noticed this varietal quickly gaining popularity on wine rosters in Virginia. In fact, 47 of the 156 wineries in Virginia claim to grow and/or use Petit Verdot, while 108 of the 156 wineries claim to grow and/or use Cabernet Franc.

I recently sampled the Petit Verdot (Signature Wine) from AmRhein Wine Cellars and Pearmund Cellars and was impressed by both almost equally. There are many other wineries that offer Petit Verdot that will register as hit among classic red wine drinkers. I don’t suggest Petit Verdot to newbies or stubborn white wine drinkers. Cabernet Franc is friendlier to white winos who like to swing to red time and time again. At the same time, red drinkers will enjoy the complexity of a Cabernet Franc. Petit Verdot is just hearty enough to enjoy with a cigar, though not as earthy and smoky as a Mourvèdre (refer to Horton’s 1998 Mourvèdre dubbed “Cigar Wine”). Both Petit Verdot and Mourvèdre ripen late and have thick skins with ample tannin.

Cabernet Franc will become even more popular in the next several years but will never achieve popularity status of Chardonnay or even Viognier. Petit Verdot will continue to and always trail Cabernet Franc in popularity because of its strong character. That is unless it happens to win a national award that throws winemakers into reverse to prefer Petit Verdot to Cabernet Franc – very unlikely.

Expect Petit Verdot to appear on more wine rosters in the coming years and then cap off. It has already started – five Petit Verdots were Gold Medal Winners in the recent 2010 Virginia Governor’s Cup (2007 James River, 2008 North Gate, 2008 Sugarleaf, 2007 Gadino and 2005 Ingleside). While awards are nice and trigger temporary interest, this varietal will be subject to supply and demand – a popularity contest of the viticulturist planting what the consumer likes and wants. A dusty bottle with a gold medal around its neck isn’t much of a marketing tool anymore, no matter how proudly displayed. Vintages come and go.

Petit Verdot will remain a hidden red gem among Virginia’s wines in a very specific niche (among others like Malbec, Mourvèdre and Tannat). Those who happen to pluck it from the niche and become smitten over its powerful character will seek Petit Verdot again and again. However, they will never be able to elevate it as Virginia’s flagship wine.

Cabernet Francs I recommend:
• Horton Vineyards / Cabernet Franc 2007
• First Colony Winery / Cabernet Franc 2007
• Rebec Vineyards / Cabernet Franc
• Villa Appalaccia Winery / “Francesco” Cabernet Franc 2006
• Rosemont / Cabernet Franc 2006
• Rockbridge Winery / Cabernet Franc Reserve
• Pearmund Cellars / Cabernet Franc 2007
• Williamsburg Winery / Virginia Trianon (Reserve Cabernet Franc)

Petit Verdots I recommend:
• AmRhein Wine Cellars / Petit Verdot Signature Wine
• Pearmund Cellars / Pearmund Petit Verdot 2007
• Jefferson Vineyards / Petit Verdot 2007
• James River Cellars / Petit Verdot 2006